Maria Portinari of Bruges
These headdresses were especially popular in 15th century Burgundy, Flanders, and France, but noblewomen also wore them in England, Hungary, and Poland. Women probably began to wear them in the 1430s and hennins became more noticeable after the 1450s.
Stylish women at the Flemish court wore hennins with veils at the top. Flemish women plucked their hair and even their eyebrows for a desirable, high forehead. Eyebrows were shaped into a slender line or totally removed.
A translucent or semi-translucent veil was often draped over the hennin and covered the wearer’s face. Veils of various lengths could also start from the top of the hat and drape down over the shoulders.
Mary, Duchess of Burgundy
conclude that because paintings of women wearing hennins show that their hair was drawn back very tightly, a forehead loop and an ear piece might have kept the hat in place.
During the 15th century, the hats were commonly referred to as “atours” or “tyres”, or another word that was used in a particular country. The word “hennin” was probably a French word used for an earlier headdress.
A variation on the hennin was the truncated hennin, which was flat at the top.
The hennin stopped being fashionable in the 1490s.
Constructing the Headdresses of the Fourteenth and Fifteenth Centuries by Marie Vibbert
Illuminating the Rennaissance